The sound of light rain on our skylight combined with our post-flight fatigue to make sleeping a bit later than usual seem like a very good idea this morning. We watched the boats weathering the wind and rain in the bay as we breakfasted, but by the time we set out, blue sky and sun had gained the upper hand.
We were interested in exploring a bit of Brittany's coast along the English Channel today and our first stop was outside the town of Erquy. We found an area of trails atop rocky promontories above the water. We wandered around, sometimes barely able to stand upright against the fierce winds. The views of the sea, rocks, beaches, flowers, and fishing boats were as dramatic as the wind was powerful. We were grateful for the sun and for the fact that it was not a cold day. We ate our lunch taking in the view, but sheltered in our car.
Our next stop was Plouha, which we targeted because we wanted to get down to water level on a beach. We were rewarded with turquoise water, and a long, wide beach, ringed with rocks covered by mussels and clams, below cliffs topped by pines. An unexpected history lesson was an added bonus: historical markers and a monument testified to the important role the beach and the local citizens played during World War II. The area was a stronghold of resistance to the Nazi occupiers and, during the periods of full moons over the course of eight months during 1944, the locals hid and assisted in the evacuation of Allied pilots across the Channel to England. Seventy years later, natives and visitors alike can enjoy a day at the beach...Another drive brought us to Ploumach, where we enjoyed the small harbor and the rocky islands, one topped by a castle, in the waters nearby. The small harbor area was clogged with trucks, equipment, and gawkers watching the filming of a movie in a local creperie.
The rocks along this part of the coast are pink granite, giving the area the name Cote du Granit Rose. The buildings and cobblestones of local villages have a distinct rosy hue, reflecting the use of native materials in their construction.
We returned to St. Malo just as the sun was setting and headed to a nearby creperie for dinner. We enjoyed local specialties -- galettes et cidre (savory buckwheat crepes and apple cider) -- in a port-side setting.
Throughout the day, we saw signs of the uniqueness of this province of France. Brittany had been independent until the 15th century, when it became part of France as a by-product of a royal marriage. It retains strong Celtic ties and traditions, as well as its own language; much of the signage is in both Breton and French.
Today's free-form wandering brought us great beauty, a history lesson, and a bit of cultural education.
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