As we awoke and prepared to leave Mont St. Michel this morning, the scene had changed quite a bit overnight. The tide had come in, and water was lapping at the ramparts, where we walked for a bit in order to take in the sight of the Abbey partially encircled by fog. High tide waters had covered some of the small parking area just outside the walls, and were actually standing inside the main gate of the town. As we made our way to the path leading to the shuttle bus to the mainland, our feet actually got just a tiny bit wet!
We drove inland this morning to reach Rouen, the capital of Upper Normandy, and once France's second city. Our first stop was the magnificent 12th century Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady. Though greatly damaged during Allied bombing of 1944, it has been largely restored. The long, narrow nave is especially striking, with its four tiers of arches rising above the floor. Most of the original medieval stained windows were lost during the war; today plain white glass predominates, even in the rose window above the main portal. The highly decorated (and partially shrouded in scaffolding) west facade is familiar to fans of the painter Claude Monet, as he painted many views of it in differing light.
Leaving the Cathedral, we walked through the old town, full of medieval half-timbered buildings, many of which are now converted to shops, restaurants, and offices; one even houses a McDonald's!
Near the flamboyant Church of St. Maclouf, we stopped to see the Plague Cemetery. Once the spot where bones of plague victims were "processed" and stored, the half-timbered buildings lining the courtyard now house and art school!
The Rue du Gros Horloge is now the main shopping street of the town center, as well as the home of one of Rouen's chief landmarks, the Grand Clock, for which it is named. The clock and its arch over the street are adorned with images of lambs in recognition of the original source of Rouen's wealth and prominence.
The Vieux Marches, or old market square, still houses a covered market, as well as the foundations of a medieval church. Prominently marked by a tall cross, the site of the burning of St. Joan of Arc is surrounded by a garden in the square. A very contemporary church honoring this young saint and patroness of France is adjacent to the garden.
We saw further evidence of the heavy Allied bombing on the facade of the Justice Palace which still bears the marks of the extensive damage from that time.
From Rouen, we drove to Honfleur, a beautiful port town, which will be our base for five nights. We have a terrific modern apartment just a couple of blocks from the boat basin. After dinner tonight, we strolled around that area, which is ringed with restaurants, sidewalk cafes, art galleries, and shops. It was a lively and picturesque scene, and probably the reason that Honfleur is known as Normandy's prettiest harbor.
No comments:
Post a Comment